I packed my backpack for a night's sleep in the Sokuluk gorges. I put the tent, the sleeping bag and the mattress in it. The cheapest way to travel from Bishkek to Sokuluk is by marshrutka, a mini van that can be comfortable if you are sitting. If you are more than one meter and eighty centimeters tall, you will shrink if you have to be on your feet. Sokuluk is a town located about 30 kilometers from the Ortosay market bus station, and the journey takes about three quarters of an hour.

Traveling by marshrutka

I had set out to reach the Belogorka waterfall, at the end of the canyon route. The journey, however, would not be as fast as going from Bishkek to the village of Sokuluk. Now it was time to make the rest of the journey by combining taxi, hitchhiking and walking. Especially walking.

In Sokuluk I was waiting for a while for the marshrutka to reach Belogorka, the last town, about 15 km from the waterfall of the same name. From talking to other people who were also waiting, I assumed that the transport might take a long time to arrive. I didn't want to make the crossing at night because I wanted to enjoy the colors of the sunset, so I decided to take a taxi that would cost me about 10,000 som (about 10 euro). It was a bit “expensive”, but the taxi driver should drive back to Sokuluk alone, probably without customers.

The taxi ride was entertaining. The friendly taxi driver was curious about my visit. We both struggled to communicate using Russian, English, Catalan and the universal language of mime.

After traveling along a damaged road, the asphalt ran out. It was the end of the journey. A car stops next to us. The driver asks the taxi driver if I am a tourist and where I am going. I was immediately invited as a passenger and continued along the dirt track for a few kilometers, until I reached the home of the friendly couple. There I say goodbye to them and continue my way on foot.

The mobilisation. Forced expatriates

After walking for a while another car passes me and stops. The occupants were two men and a woman. They ask me about the Belogorka waterfall and I tell them that I am going there with the intention of visiting it for the first time. They offer me to go together in the car. They seem nice. I sit in the back with Sasha, the couple's friend. All three are Russian. The couple have been living in Sokuluk for a few years, while Sasha left Moscow two weeks ago to avoid being sent to war by the Russian government. He regrets that for the first time he will not celebrate his birthday with his wife and daughter, who have stayed in Moscow. It had been his wife's birthday a few days ago and he had to congratulate her from a distance. A very hard situation that the Russian population is experiencing since the war with Ukraine broke out. Since then I have met many people who have had to leave their families, especially men, to take refuge in other countries such as Kyrgyzstan.

Along the way we stop to stretch our legs and walk by the river. They open the trunk and take out some food which they share with me. A man drives by in his car and asks us if everything is okay. The conversation is in Russian and I don't understand everything they say. Apparently there is no water in the waterfall. Of course, we are in the month of October and the weather is still pretty good. There has been no snowfall, yet. To enjoy the exuberance of the Belogorka waterfall I will have to return there in the spring.

Well, my friends decide to head back to Sokuluk. I tell them that I continue on foot until I find a place to pitch my tent and spend the night there. It has been a real pleasure to share this time with them. Traveling is exciting and I can't think of a better way to gain experiences and meet people from different cultures.

A peaceful place to enjoy

It's getting dark and I hurry to find a place to pitch my tent. The place is magnificent. I got away from the track and went down the mountain a few meters towards the river. I enjoy the sound of the river and the peace. I will sleep peacefully today.

In the morning I get up early, pack up camp and practically walk all the way back to Sokuluk. I enjoy the early light and the show of colors on this magnificent route.

If you travel to Kyrgyzstan, don't forget to visit Sokuluk and Belogorka Falls, especially in spring season. It's very close to Bishkek, and it's a good choice as a first excursion to start delving into the rural culture of the country.

** Sokuluk photos available in the catalog, you can find them here.